Cosmetic Surgery,  Makeup,  Salon,  Skin,  Toxic Beauty

Makeup Application & Technique


Make-up application and techniques for photography are different than make-up a woman wears everyday.

Old school photographers know digital cameras are not as forgiving as the old classic 35mm cameras. These are a couple digital cameras used today by photographers. This is a HASSELBLAD H5D-200MS 200 MPX MS DIGITAL CAMERA KIT price tag of  $44,000 and no lens.

Hasselblad H5D-60 Medium Format Digital SLR Camera Body  again with no lens.

Try a $12,000 Canon EOS 1D-5D Mark III, or Nikon D4, take your pick. Without Photoshop they will never produce the type of results a old Leica film 35mm camera would.

This is circa photography before Photoshop, cool old cameras take a look at 35mm Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Olympos, and Pentax cameras.  The type of 35mm camera, lighting, and the skill level of the photographer and makeup artist are factors how the subjects makeup will register with the camera.

I have a fondness towards film. Makeup looks softer, flaws aren’t as noticeable. Women looked so much more beautiful on film. Years ago, a heavier coverage of foundation was needed. But now in the new age of digital cameras much has changed.

Be sure that your foundation coverage is perfect otherwise the camera will not lie. Using a dusting of powder is also a key as well as your application of it. Digital will reveal everything, things like poor or heavy foundation coverage will show, plus every tiny imperfection. Using more foundation is not necessary; it’s selecting the proper shade and hue of matte products. Less is more. It has been my experience for photography, and I’m not sure why but foundation must have a SPF in order for it to accurately interact with the flash. Gloss on your lips is distracting; shimmer, frosts and iridescent in the eye area or lips have the same effects.


Makeup Application & Technique


My personal feeling is expensive isn’t always the best. I have found that many of my wealthy clients prefer cheap drug store finds or cosmetics from Whole Foods (health stores) instead of cosmetics from Neiman Marcus or Saks Fifth Avenue. I tend to agree.  Sometimes products under $10 out perform ones over $100. The secret is finding the product that helps you achieve the perfect results.


Determine your skin type and whether you need a toner. A toner is used to neutralize the skin and keep the moisture in the upper layers of the skin. It can be applied with a cotton ball to the area it is needed or spray misted on the face. Not all women need a toner.


Determine your skin type. Then select the moisturizer to fit your needs and is in your price range. You might like to choose one without fragrance, it is a healthier option. Apply a skin toner first if needed, then the moisturizer to where your skin appears the driest. If you have dry skin you may need to apply all over your entire face. The moisturizer is the primer to prep your skin, just like an artist would prime before they paint their canvas. Allow the moisturizer to soak in and wait a minute before you move on to applying foundation.

For some women with uneven skin tone or imperfections, some many choose to use a primer before the foundation, after using a moisturizer. A primer can also minimize large pores and mattify the coverage. However, not all women need a primer.


Celebrity flawless looking skin is created by the use of foundation, which is the fundamental key. Foundation today is far from the thick foundation from our mother’s day. Today they are sheer and apply much like a moisturizer. The secret to a good smooth foundation application is to apply a light moisturizer before you apply your foundation and some women use a light application of primer.

Some celebrity make-up artists apply foundation with an airbrush tool. It is an air operated device that sprays the foundation in an extremely fine mist. The technique dates back to circa 1925. This method is best for a flawless extremely close up shots for HDTV production. The disadvantage is  the product and the airbrush machine are costly to maintain and purchase. The machine requires electricity and can be noisy. For the average consumer it takes time to learn to operate and difficult to do touch ups. And its not always suitable for very dry and wrinkled skin, it will tend to look dry and cakey. Airbrush makeup tends to over exaggerate lines and wrinkled and it will make you look older.  The biggest draw back  is the products don’t come in natural formulas with healthy not toxic ingredients. The airbrush machines only operate with specific brands of make-up compatible with their machines. You can’t use your ordinary foundation with it.

Finding the perfect foundation shade is very important. Use your jaw line and cheek as a guide to choose the right shade. Make your selection in the daylight, not at night for noticeable reasons. Then bring it home and test it during the daylight hours to see if it will work. Almost all stores will allow you to return cosmetics, so don’t be afraid to buy a couple shades if you aren’t sure. Keep your receipt and you can take back what you don’t want. You know the shade is perfect when it appears to disappear on your skin when you apply it. If it is noticeable, keep searching for the one that seems to disappear when applied.

Professional make-up artists have mixed views on what method they like to use to apply foundation — Finger Tip vs. Sponge. For my clients my personal favorite is a non-latex sponge.

Beautyfullness Makeup Blender Sponge Non-Latex, Non-Streaking Provides Perfect Blending Of Foundation Unique Shape Allows Better Coverage Anti-Microbial Foam Blocks Bacteria Easy To Use&Clean 2Pk

  Aesthetica Cosmetics Beauty Sponge Blender – Latex Free and Vegan Makeup Sponge – For Powder, Cream or Liquid Application.

I also like these Cinema Secrets Precut Makeup Sponge, 8-count


And I feel the coverage is better. Using my finger on a client is not sanitary. You might find using your finger seems to warm the product up in the application process and you might like the way it covers and you achieve better control. This is perfectly okay. Also for light coverage, dabbing the foundation only where you need it with your finger tip is far superior than applying it all over your face when it’s not needed.

Begin your application in the center of your face, on your nose and work your way across your face and cheeks, move up from your chin to your forehead. To achieve an airbrushed finish, apply the foundation lightly over and under your eyes, as well as over your lips. You will find the eye shadow and lipstick will last longer. If you are doing a light coverage apply only to the T-zone, or over a pimple or uneven skin tone.

* HEALTH NOTE * Foundation with SPF contains an active ingredient. It is very important that you do not use old product. The active ingredient can spoil and cause damaging health issues by using an old out dated product. That is why it is called an active ingredient. So be sure to check the expiration date on the package before you buy and use it. Throw out old SPF product immediately. Click past the Environmental Working Group email sign up page to explore all the useful resources their site has to offer, or visit the link at the bottom of this page.


Concealer is applied over foundation under your eyes. It can be applied in the eye area as a primer before eye shadow. The foundation under the concealer will keep the eye shadow crease-free. Find a light concealer one shade lighter than the foundation. If you select a shade darker you will defeat your purpose. You can also use concealer on a blemish or flaw on other areas of your face to highlight in the contour process. Set consealer will a light dusting of translucent powered.


Safe matte colors are pinks, rosy cream, nudes and natural fleshy tones.  Blend your blush so it doesn’t appear like two streaks or round little spots on your cheeks. Use a non latex sponge wedge to blend it well. It’s all about blending to achieve a professional look.

I am not fond of mineral make-up, of any type. The reason being, mineral make-up contain untested minerals, many of which can have toxic levels. Cosmetics are NOT tested by the FDA for carcinogens. You don’t know what mineral are in it and what are safe levels in the products you use. Aluminum, copper, lead, limestone,  silver and many others are toxic minerals you wouldn’t want in your beauty products. Consequently, this is my reason for never using mineral make up on my self or clients.  Visit the video and link at the bottom of this page for more information.

An added note, the reflective shimmer in mineral make-up is not suitable for photography.


Use a light dusting of matte powder to set your make up application. Apply it with a large power brush for a lighter application, a Kabuki brush will give you a light dusting. I like this Aerin Kabuki Brush – by AERIN



By using a make-up powder puff you will get a heavier coverage but might be suitable for oily skin types. Many new translucent powers reflect the light and remove the glow and shine.


I like the large powder puffs the best.
Zink Color Round Jumbo Velour Powder Puff W Ribbon 4″ Diameter




For a shine free look instead of using powder try using oil blotting rice paper for superior results.

This is what I use… 2 Pack Palladio Beauty Rice Paper RPA2 Translucent



Dark eye shadows can shrink your eye area. Use dark matte colors only to accentuate and create depth. Use light matte colors to open the eye area and create a widening effect. For photography frosted colors are not the best. The camera picks up the refection and in the photograph the viewer eye is drawn to the refection. Matte shadows are always best for photography. Sparkles, shimmers and iridescent shadows are not effective for photography.


White eye liner pencil is a new trick to make the eye area appear larger. Run the white liner on the lid along the upper lid of your eye lashes. Then apply your shadow over it. By doing this the shadow will pick up the white liner and help to accentuate and define your eye area. Running white eye liner inside your inner eye lid will open up the whiteness of your eyes.

By lining the inside of the eye inner lid with black liner it will create an exotic look and make the whiteness of your eyes narrower. Line the side and bottom of your eye, below your lashes, with a darker eye liner, deep green, dark purple, navy blue, brown or black all work depending on your eye color.


Brows are back. There are two products your can use, a brow pencil or (cake) brow powder with a stiff angle brow brush. Pick a shade one shade lighter than your hair color. Don’t over draw your eye brows. Make sure the eyebrow pencil has a very sharp point. Follow the natural shape of your brows. Use swift short hair like strokes to fill in areas. If you are looking for a softer more blended look use a brow brush over what you have penciled in, or smudge it with a Q-tip, or use a powdered brow product instead.

Keep your eye brows in place by using clear mascara over your brow hairs and brush them into shape with a brow brush. Another option is spritz some light hair spray on an eye brow brush, while it is still wet  shape your brows into place.


My all time favorite is L’Oreal Voluminous Mascara.
L’Oreal Paris Voluminous Curved Brush Mascara, Black, 0.28 Ounces

It is almost identical to the $25-$45 Lancôme mascaras. Anyone of the Voluminous Mascaras in the L’Oreal line is wonderful. See them here… L”Oreal Paris.



Some of my model clients are in love with the classic Mabelline Great Lash mascara. Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara, Very Black, 0.43 fl. Oz.

It’s been around for decades. I’m sure you know which one I’m speaking of, the tube is hot pink and the cap is bright green. I find it takes forever to dry, and in order to get high volume it takes continual reapplications; as a result I never use it. However, it’s a best seller and many women use it.


This 3D Fiber Lash Mascara, 300X Fiber Mascara by Lash Factory – Our Best 3D Fiber Lashes gets good reviews.









Celebrities are all wearing them. They are sexy, flirty and easy to apply. Let’s face it mascara is the dirtiest thing on our bodies and false eye lashes are a more sanitary alternative.


For a matte finish line your entire lips with lip liner. Start lining your lips on your top lips. Begin in the center and move to the outer corners. Repeat the same technique on you bottom lip.


For photography matte or semigloss lipstick photograph the best. High reflective lip gloss doesn’t look good in pictures. The viewer eye is drawn to the shine; not the over all picture.

Your lipstick application will look gorgeous if your lips are silky and smooth before you apply lipstick. To keep the skin on your lips smooth and soft, exfoliate. An easy way to exfoliate your lips is with a damp wash cloth. Your lips and skin is quite supple when you just get out of the shower. Use the towel or wash cloth, and rub briskly with it back-and-forth over your lips and you can remove excess dead skin. Get in the habit of doing this regularly and your lips will love you for it.

 Cherie Izzo © All Rights Reserved